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Submitted by Jeffrey Stilwell
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| Latin name |
Lichanura trivirgata ssp |
Maximum length |
2 - 3 feet |
| Native to |
North America |
Approximate life span |
Undocumented |
GENERAL INFORMATION
The Latin name, Lichanura trivirgata, translates to "Finger-like tail"
and "Three stripes". Cousins to the sand boas and rubber boas, rosy
boas are one of only two boa species native to North America, sharing
that distinction with the rubber boa. Not only are rosy boas extremely
docile in comparison to other boa species, they are one of the most
docile snake species, period. Combine their easy-going nature and the
striking colors they exhibit and you have one very desirable snake.
Rosy boas are excellent feeders and have a sensitive feeding trigger.
If kept together for long periods (other than for breeding purposes)
they may tend to strike at anything that moves (i.e. cagemates). After
a while rosy boas might get discouraged at not getting a mouthful of
mouse when it strikes and may stop striking. This will keep your rosy
boa from eating. To avoid this problem keep all rosy boas individually
until it is time to put them together for breeding (April/May through
June). Keep the male and female together for one week to one month at a
time through this period.
ENCLOSURE
Enclosure size is not much of an important
factor for these stout-bodies snakes. One adult rosy boa can easily
exhist in a 15 - 20 gallon aquarium. A more important factor to
consider is ventilation. Rosy boas do not survive well in humid
conditions. In fact their environment should be downright dry. Ample
ventilation is a must for rosy boas.
SUBSTRATE
Although newspaper is adequate for rosy
boas, a substrate that allows them to burrow is more desirable. Pine
shavings are fine, but for a more natural look, commercial reptile sand
is a good choice. In either case, placing a couple layers of newspaper
down before the final substrate will help during cleanup times.
TEMPERATURE & HUMIDITY
Rosy boas occur naturally
in the deserts of North America (specifically southern California,
western Arizona and western Mexico). Therefore, their temperatures
should mimic those of the southwestern United States and Mexican
deserts. The cool end of the enclosure should fall into the low 80's
while the warm side should reach the high 80's. If the over-all daytime
temperature is allowed to drop below 80°, then your rosy boa will run
the risk of regurgitation. Whether you're planning on breeding your
rosy boa or not, it is a good idea to place it in short-term
hibernation (brumation) also known as winter cool-down, for 4 - 6
weeks. First be sure they have had access to water and that they have
not been fed recently. Next, place the snakes individually in
ventilated containers with dry, absorbent substrate but include NO
WATER. Place the containers in a cool area (approx 50° - 60°). If you
plan to place your rosy boas in brumation longer than 6 weeks, you
should place a water bowl in their container every week or two and
remove after 12 hours. To take them out of brumation, you should place
them back into their enclosure with the temperature set as mentioned
above (80° - 85°). You will find your rosy boa ready to eat right away.
Rosy boas are extremely susceptible to respiratory infection, so be
sure the relative humidity remains low.
HEATING
There are many choices when it comes to
heating your rosy boa's enclosure. When heating from above you can use
a Zoo Med REPTI BASKING SPOT LAMP, NOCTURNAL INFRARED HEAT LAMP, or a
REPTICARE CERAMIC HEAT EMITTER. When heating from below, a Zoo Med
REPTITHERM U.T.H. (Under-tank-heater) is the best choice. Most breeders
are heating their enclosures from below. Be sure you only heat one end
of the enclosure in order to give your rosy boa the opportunity to
thermoregulate (that is; allowing them the choice of temperatures in
order to keep their body temperature at it's optimal level).
LIGHTING
There are no specific lighting requirements
for the rosy boa, except for one: Do not keep white lights on for more
than 12 hours at a time. Rosy boas (like all animals) need a
photoperiod. Leaving white lights on all the time is damaging to any
animal's mental well-being. This is where INFRARED HEAT LAMPS and
REPTICARE CERAMIC HEAT EMITTERs help. They give off little to no light
and will not disrupt your rosy boa's day/night cycle. To help create a
natural daytime lighting scheme, you should consider the Zoo Med
REPTISUN 2.0 fluorescent light. It's high UVA output will enhance the
color of your rosy boa and, at the same time, be a benefit to it's
mental well-being.
FOOD & WATER
Rosy boa's eat rodents. As with many
snakes, a weekly feeding should be sufficient. A general rule-of-thumb
is if the food item is equal to or slightly smaller than the girth of
the snake, it is just right. Try to avoid feeding your rosy boa any
food that is larger around than the snake. A weekly feeding (even
every-other week) will be fine. Since, as already mentioned, rosy boas
live in the desert, their contact with water is rare. The same watering
schedule given during brumation can be followed the rest of the year;
place a water bowl in their enclosure every week or two and remove
after 12 hours.
NOTES
Always wash your hands before and immediately
after handling reptiles and amphibians. Never leave live food long term
with reptiles and amphibians. They can inflict severe harm or even kill
your pet. If your animals take some time to eat or if you feed them at
night, leave a slice of potato, carrot or dry dog food for the live
food items to eat. Your local pet shop is an ideal source for reptile
and amphibian related books and supplies. Please make sure you read and
become familiar with any instructions provided with reptile support
products you may purchase.
For further information on reptiles and amphibians we
recommend you read REPTILES MAGAZINE and THE VIVARIUM. California
Zoological Supply hopes you have enjoyed reading this reference sheet
on rosy boas. We hope that our guidelines will assist you with the care
or possible purchase of your new pet.
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Reptiles 
