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Latin name: Chameleo jacksonii
Native to: Kenya (Have been introduced to Hawaii)
Maximum length: 9 - 13 inches
Approximate life span: Up to 10 years
GENERAL INFORMATION
The Jackson's chameleon is one of the most prehistoric-looking
reptiles. This probably accounts for it's popularity, giving everyone
the chance to own a dinosaur. As with all true chameleons, the
Jackson's chameleon has some very interesting characteristics. Most
apparent of these is the ability for them to be able to look in two
directions at one time. Their brain is able to discern the separate
images and keep them straight. Other traits include; catching prey with
their long, sticky tongue; the ability to change color depending on
mood and temperature; and their unique "fused" fingers that enable them
to gain a strong hold on branches (and fingers!). Male Jackson's
chameleons have three horns on the front of their heads (not to be
confused with Johnston's chameleons which are somewhat smaller and lay
eggs, rather than give live birth as the Jackson's chameleons). Female
Jackson's chameleons look just like the males except they have no
horns.
ENCLOSURE
It is best to house chameleons alone or in
sexed pairs. Use a tall 15 gallon enclosure that is well ventilated for
one pair. Increase enclosure size by 15 gallons for each pair added.
The larger the enclosure, the better. Decorate with live and/or silk
plants and sturdy, secure branches for climbing and basking. Be sure
most of the branches are horizontal in the upper half of the enclosure
and there is one "basking branch" near the extreme top under a basking
bulb.
SUBSTRATE
Since Jackson's chameleons spend the
majority of their time on the branches, the type of substrate is not
extremely important. Zoo Med CAGE CARPET or Astroturf™ may me used, or
for a more natural look, use Zoo Med REPTI BARK™. Zoo Med REPTI BARK™
will, when damp, help keep the humidity level high, which is a plus.
TEMPERATURE & HUMIDITY
Jackson's chameleons come
from a high altitude, so the enclosure should be cool and damp, about
70 - 80°f. Humidity level 50 - 70%. In dry climates, use an airstone in
the water bowl to increase humidity levels. Any temperature over this
or humidity level too low will be detrimental to your chameleons.
HEATING
Unless you live in a particularly cold area,
no heat source will be needed other than a 50 or 75 watt Zoo Med REPTI™
BASKING SPOT BULB. If your chameleon shows signs of over heating
(gaping mouth or overall light yellow color) move it at once to a
cooler area. In an emergency, use a spray bottle with room temperature
water to cool down the chameleon. Always use a thermometer and humidity
gauge in all reptile & amphibian enclosures.
LIGHTING
Since Jackson's chameleons enjoy basking in
natural sunlight, UVA/UVB lighting should be provided. The best source
is the Zoo Med REPTISUN™ fluorescent bulb. Place the bulb closest to
the chameleon's basking area. These bulbs work most efficiently when
unobstructed. UVB light is filtered greatly by glass and somewhat by
screen. UVB fluorescent lights should be replaced every 6 months to a
year. The UV levels decline over time regardless of whether or not the
bulb is still providing light. All reptiles and amphibians need a photo
period. A plug in timer (for your lights only, do not use a timer for
your heating devices) works well to develop a regular photo period
(light cycle) of 8 - 10 hours of light, 14 - 16 hours of dark. Reptiles
and amphibians cannot see the red light spectrum, so a low wattage red
bulb is ideal for nighttime viewing. If weather permits, place your
chameleon outside for natural sunlight. Do not use a glass or acrylic
aquarium, you will cook your chameleon. Wire cages such as bird cages
work best. Be sure you provide a shady area for your chameleon to
retreat to as the temperature in direct sunlight may rise to an
undesirable level.
FOOD & WATER
Jackson's chameleons are
insectivorous lizards, that is they eat insects. Commercially bred
crickets, cockroaches, wax worms, flies and king mealworms are the best
choices. Lightly dust the food items with Zoo Med REPTIVITE® vitamins
with each feeding. Feeding should take place every other day. Vary the
diet constantly. Jackson's chameleons will get tired of eating the same
thing day after day. If you use a wire cage to house your chameleons,
hang a coffee can from the top so that it hangs just below the basking
branches. This will allow you to feed crickets to your chameleons
without letting them escape from the enclosure. Water should be
provided by means of a drip watering system. The reservoir should be
placed above the enclosure with the drip traveling down some plants
into a catch basin. Since chameleons live in the trees, they are
accustomed to licking moisture from leaves, not from pools.
NOTES
Jackson's chameleons, as with most chameleons,
do not care to be handled excessively. It's best to enjoy watching them
in their environment. They are more stress-prone than most other
reptiles. Always wash your hands before and immediately after handling
reptiles and amphibians. Never leave live food long term with reptiles
& amphibians. They can inflict severe harm, even kill your pet. If
your animals take some time to eat or you feed them at night, leave a
slice of potato, carrot or dry dog food for the live food items to eat.
Your local pet shop is an ideal source for reptile and amphibian
related books and supplies. Please make sure you read and become
familiar with any instructions provided with reptile support products
you may purchase.
For further information on reptiles and amphibians we
recommend you read REPTILES MAGAZINE and THE VIVARIUM. California
Zoological Supply hopes you have enjoyed reading this reference sheet
on Jackson's Chameleons. We hope that our guidelines will assist you
with the care or possible purchase of your new pet.
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Reptiles 
